Frequently Asked Questions

Native seeds vary enormously in size. Some are almost as fine as dust, while others are much larger. This means that a very small-looking quantity of seed can contain thousands of seeds and cover a surprisingly large area.

For example, one teaspoon of Monkey-flower seed contains approximately 40,000 seeds and can cover about 80 m². By comparison, one teaspoon of Large-leaved Lupine seed contains only about 140 seeds and covers approximately 1.5 m².

The difference is seed size: the space seed takes up in an envelope doesn't tell you how much ground it can cover.

That's why we provide coverage and seeding-rate information rather than relying on the physical volume of seed. For individual species, check the Seed Details table on the product page. For Designed Seed Blends, the blend page lists the recommended coverage.

When broadcasting a small quantity of seed over a larger area, mixing it with a carrier increases the volume of material being spread and can help achieve more even distribution.

The half cup of native seed mix shown above contains approximately 105,000 seeds-enough to very generously seed about 175 m² (1,880 ft²).

A carrier is a material such as sand, vermiculite, sawdust, or another suitable mixing agent that you can mix with seed before broadcasting. It increases the volume of material being spread, which can help achieve more even seed distribution and make it easier to see which areas have already been seeded.

Using a carrier is optional. It can be particularly useful when broadcasting small native seeds or seed mixes over larger areas, where the required seed quantity may be surprisingly small.

We do not add filler or carrier to our seed mixes. You receive only the seed, and you can add a carrier before sowing if it helps your site and seeding method.

How you blend your seed with a carrier depends on the total volume. A small pail or bucket is sufficient for most mixes. For larger areas, a large tote or clean wheelbarrow works well. You can thoroughly mix the seed and carrier there, then transfer it to a bucket for hand broadcasting.

Native seed mixes often contain seeds that vary greatly in size and weight. Thorough mixing before you begin, and continued gentle mixing as you work, helps prevent the seed from sorting, with smaller or heavier seeds settling to the bottom.

We recommend dividing your seed and carrier into two equal portions. Broadcast the first portion evenly over the entire area, then broadcast the second portion while travelling across the site in a different direction. Two passes help achieve more even distribution and reduce the chance of missing areas.

If you begin running low on your mixture before completing the area, add more carrier rather than more seed.

Yes. You can hand-broadcast native seed over surprisingly large areas. For larger sites, dividing the area and seed into smaller, measured sections makes it much easier to maintain an even seeding rate.

For example, if you are seeding 1 acre, divide the seed mix into four equal portions and the site into four 1/4 acre sections. Seed each section separately. For areas of about 0.5 acre or larger, this approach greatly reduces the risk of using too much seed early and running short before you cover the entire site.

We generally prefer hand broadcasting because it provides good control over seed distribution, particularly with native seed mixes containing seeds of many different sizes and shapes.

Seed spreading equipment can also be used for larger projects, including belly grinders and hydroseeding equipment. If using a mechanical spreader, test the equipment and mixture first to make sure the different seed types and carrier move through it effectively.

Hydroseeding can also be used for native seed, but take care not to bury the seed too deeply beneath the slurry or mulch. Native seed mixes contain seeds of many different sizes and with different germination requirements. Some species may germinate readily, while others may remain dormant until they experience the seasonal conditions needed for germination. The goal is good contact between the seed and soil without burying the seed too deeply.

Remember that a native seed mix is not intended to behave like a conventional turf seed mix. Different species germinate at different times, and some seed may remain dormant in the soil until it experiences the seasonal conditions required for germination. The goal is to place seed in good contact with the soil without burying it too deeply.

Not necessarily. Some species may germinate at the same time, but staggered germination is also completely normal in native seed mixes. Native plants are diverse, and so are their germination requirements and strategies.

Some species germinate readily in a flush when conditions are suitable. Others require a winter, or sometimes more than one winter, to break seed dormancy through cold stratification. Some germinate slowly and irregularly, with seedlings appearing here and there over an extended period. Temperature requirements also vary. Some species germinate under cool conditions, others require warmer temperatures, and some respond to a particular sequence of seasonal conditions.

This means that a native seed mix develops over time. The species you see in the first season may represent only part of the mix, with additional species appearing later or in subsequent years.

If you are curious about a particular species, visit its product page and open the Seed Details table. There you can find species specific information about sowing time, germination, dormancy, and what to expect during establishment.

For a Designed Seed Blend, you can also use the species list on the blend page to explore the individual species included in your mix.

Great question! Timing is critical, we suggest an early fall sowing (September) for best results and in some cases early spring (Feb or early March). An early fall sowing and establishment for native species allows the plants to follow the natural fall and winter cycle. When hard frosts come, they have had a chance to put down roots that will anchor them. Otherwise, they can be forced out of the ground as water in the soil crystallizes and expands (called frost-heaving), forcing the seedlings up and out. In severe winter weather, particularly dry cold, this can still happen, but better-established plants are more resilient.

Sowing in early fall also allows for a short growing window after germination because the weather is still warm enough..

Slopes are a good example where the early establishment is necessary to prevent erosion/runoff and to prevent the seeds from washing down the slope in rain events. If they have a chance to establish roots before the rain events, then they are anchored safely. Establishment takes time and requires patience. Once seeded, the area should be protected from trampling by dogs, people, and deer. We recommend staying completely off the newly seeded area for 8 months to a year.

Some seed loss to birds, rodents, insects, and other animals is normal when sowing outdoors. Our recommended seeding rates include some contingency for seeds that do not germinate or establish, including losses that naturally occur after sowing.

Birds such as Dark-eyed Juncos and Golden-crowned Sparrows may forage in newly seeded areas, particularly when seed is freshly sown, or seedlings are emerging. In most cases, this activity is not a concern, especially over larger seeded areas. You usually don't need to protect the site just because you see birds foraging.

If you notice unusually concentrated feeding in a small area, temporary protection can help. Fine insect netting can help discourage birds while still allowing light and rain through. Secure it carefully and remove it once it is no longer needed.

Good seed-to-soil contact can also help. After broadcasting, gently press the seed into the soil without burying it deeply.

Establishment from native seed can be gradual, and what you see in the first year depends on the species, seed mix, sowing time, and site conditions.

With a diverse seed blend, you may first notice scattered seedlings emerging in fall, winter, or early spring, followed by much more growth and coverage later in spring. In other cases, establishment remains quite sparse throughout the first growing season. This does not necessarily mean the seeding has failed. Be patient, minimize disturbance to the seeded area, and allow it to continue developing into its second growing season.

Germination and flowering are also two different stages of establishment. You may see flowers in the first year, but don't expect every species in a native seed mix to flower right away.

Annuals such as Sea Blush and Farewell to Spring complete their life cycle in a single growing season and flower in their first year. Some perennials, such as Yarrow and Woolly Sunflower, may also flower relatively quickly. Other perennial species spend their early years establishing roots and vegetative growth before flowering.

Some species take considerably longer. Bulb-producing species such as Great Camas, Common Camas, and White Fawn Lily can take up to seven years to reach flowering maturity.

Seed that does not germinate in the first year has not necessarily failed. Even within a single species, not all seeds that can germinate will germinate at the same time. Some may germinate readily, while others from the same seed lot remain dormant until a later season. Germination can be spread across multiple seasons or years as individual seeds respond to environmental and seasonal conditions.

For individual species, visit the Seed Details table on the product page for information about germination and establishment. If you are trying to figure out what has already germinated, our Cotyledon Catalogue can help you identify native plants at their earliest seedling stages.

Native plants are adapted to our region, but a newly seeded native area still requires care during establishment. How much care depends on the site, the species being grown, and particularly how well the site was prepared before seeding.

Good site preparation is one of the most important factors in successful establishment. Existing vegetation and the weed seed bank in the soil can create significant competition for newly germinating native plants. Even a site that looks bare can contain many dormant weed seeds that germinate when the soil is disturbed or when fall rains return.

For this reason, much of the work happens before the native seed is sown. Taking the time to reduce existing weeds and prepare a suitable seed bed can greatly reduce the amount of intervention needed later.

After sowing, some weed management is usually necessary, particularly during the first few growing seasons. Native seedlings can be small and slow to establish, while many weeds grow quickly. This stage requires a careful balance: manage competing weeds without excessively disturbing the soil or damaging young native plants. Avoid aggressive weeding, repeated soil disturbance, and unnecessary foot traffic, particularly during the first and second years. Where possible, keep people and pets from regularly walking, running, or playing through newly seeded areas. Native seeds may continue to germinate over multiple seasons, and small seedlings can be easily damaged or overlooked.

Once established, ongoing care varies with the species, site conditions, and planting goals. A native meadow is not necessarily maintenance-free, but good site preparation and thoughtful management during establishment can make a substantial difference to its long-term success.

The best time to sow native seeds depends on the species or seed blend. Many native species require cold stratification: a period of cool, moist conditions that helps break seed dormancy and prepares the seed to germinate. Sowing outdoors at the right time lets seeds experience these seasonal conditions naturally.

Other species do not require cold stratification and may be suitable for spring sowing.

For individual species: Check the Seed Details table on the species page. Sowing time and germination information are specific to each species and indicate when to sow.

For our Designed Seed Blends: Check the Sowing time listed on the blend page. We formulate our blends with their intended sowing season in mind. Some are designed for fall sowing so that species can experience winter conditions, while others are specifically designed for spring sowing.

Following the recommended sowing time is important because native species have different dormancy and germination requirements. And don't expect everything to appear at once, different species may germinate at different times, and some may take more than one growing season to emerge.

The amount of seed you need depends on the species or seed blend and the size of the area you are seeding.

For individual species: Check the Seed Details table on the species page. It includes the recommended seeding rate and coverage information, including packet coverage and square metres per gram, where applicable.

For our Designed Seed Blends: Each blend page shows the approximate area covered by each available package size in both square metres (m²) and square feet (ft²). Choose the package size that most closely matches the area you plan to seed.

Before ordering, measure the area you intend to seed as accurately as possible. If your planting area is irregular, dividing it into a few smaller shapes can make it easier to estimate the total area.

More seed isn't necessarily better. Our coverage recommendations are designed to provide an appropriate seeding density, so we recommend using the amount indicated for your species, blend, and area.

For larger projects, individual species may also be available as bulk seed, and larger quantities of our Designed Seed Blends can be prepared to suit your project.

Yes, we may be able to help identify native plants. Please email your identification request and photographs to info@satinflower.ca rather than bringing unknown plants or plant material directly to the nursery.

If possible, include several clear photographs showing the whole plant as well as close-ups of important features. Flowers or fruits are particularly helpful, but leaves, stems, the base of the plant, and its overall growth form can also be important. Please also tell us where the plant is growing and describe the habitat, such as a dry rocky site, meadow, woodland, wet area, or shoreline.

The most accurate identification often requires flowering or fruiting structures. Some plants can only be confidently identified by examining particular features in person. If a specimen is necessary, we will let you know what material would be useful and how best to collect or prepare it. Please do not bring plant specimens to the nursery unless we have arranged this with you in advance.

Once you become familiar with common botanical terms, regional field guides, floras, and identification keys are excellent tools for learning to identify plants. Online identification tools and communities can also help narrow down an identification, especially when you provide several good photographs.

If you are trying to identify seedlings emerging from one of our seed mixes, our Cotyledon Catalogue can help you recognize native plants at their earliest stages.

• Plants of the Pacific Coast: From Alaska to Oregon, including British Columbia and Washington — Jim Pojar, Andy MacKinnon, Jamie Fenneman, and Styawat/Leigh Joseph.
• Flora of the Pacific Northwest: An Illustrated Manual, 2nd Edition — a more technical botanical reference with illustrated identification keys.
• Illustrated Flora of British Columbia — Volumes 1 through 8. A comprehensive reference to the native and naturalized vascular plants of British Columbia.
• E Flora BC: Electronic Atlas of the Flora of British Columbia — an excellent online resource for BC plant taxonomy, distribution, descriptions, and other botanical information.
• Saanich Ethnobotany: Culturally Important Plants of the W̱SÁNEĆ People — Nancy J. Turner and Richard J. Hebda. An important local resource documenting plants and their names, uses, and cultural significance through knowledge shared by Saanich knowledge holders.
• iNaturalist — a useful online tool and community for documenting observations, narrowing down possible identifications, and having identifications reviewed by others.

How do I find the right native plants or seeds for my site?

Start by getting to know your site. Consider how much sun it receives, how wet or dry the soil is throughout the year, and what you would like your planting to accomplish.

Our website is designed to help you narrow down your choices. Browse our plant and seed collections, use the filters, or use the search bar to look for characteristics that matter to you, such as dry, shade, deer-resistant, or pollinator.

Once you've found a species you're interested in, open its product page and look for the Plant Details and Seed Details tables. These provide much more information about the species and can help you decide whether it is a good match for your site.

Plant Details include information such as habitat, light and moisture requirements, height, flowering period, growth habit, special features, and companion plants.

Seed Details, where available, include information such as seeds per packet, coverage, seeds per gram, seeding rate, bulk seed pricing, sowing time, and species-specific germination and establishment information.

If you're planning a meadow or larger seeded area, you can also explore our Designed Seed Blends, which bring together native species for particular site conditions and planting goals.

Tip: Start with the conditions you have rather than trying to change your site to suit a particular plant. Matching native species to the existing conditions is one of the best ways to support successful establishment.

We stand behind the plants and seed we provide. We ensure species are correctly identified, plants are healthy when they leave our care, seed is carefully grown, collected, cleaned, and stored, and orders are assembled accurately.

Because plants and seeds are living organisms, we cannot guarantee successful growth, germination, establishment, survival, or flowering after they leave our care. These outcomes depend on many factors, including site conditions, planting or sowing methods, timing, weather, watering, competition, storage, and ongoing care.

Native seed also has diverse dormancy and germination requirements. Germination may be immediate, delayed, or spread across multiple seasons, depending on the species and conditions.

If you have a concern about something you purchased from us, please contact us promptly. We are happy to help assess what you are seeing and determine an appropriate solution.

Please see our Return Policy for complete information about plant health concerns, seed, returns, exchanges, replacements, store credit, and refunds.

Once your potted plant order is ready, please pick it up within 5 business days, if possible.

Plants still need care once an order is assembled! While they are waiting for you, our team continues to water, monitor, move, and care for them, while also keeping dedicated nursery space available for your order.

We understand that schedules don't always cooperate. If you need a little more time, please let us know. We can generally hold potted plant orders for up to one month from the date we notify you that your order is ready.

For plants that need to remain in our care beyond the agreed pickup date or timeframe, a Plant Care Fee of 5% of the applicable plant order subtotal per month may apply. This helps cover the additional care, staff time, and nursery space involved in looking after your plants until you can collect them.

Longer holds may also be possible by special arrangement. If you know you will need a later pickup date, please let us know as early as possible so we can work out an appropriate plan together.

If an order is not collected within the agreed timeframe and we haven't arranged an extended hold, the plants may eventually need to be returned to nursery inventory.

For complete details, please see our Return Policy.